Specialized Tarmac SL6 Bike Building

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It’s been a while since I tinkered with my bike. I just bought a roval aero handlebar recently and plan to run the cables internally to make it looks better. I disassembled the bike myself to try it out, but dealing with the Shimano 7020 setup with two hydraulic cables and two shift cables (a total of four lines) was quite a challenge. This led me to consider buying a Shimano 8170 set, so I started browsing major Canadian bike websites. To my surprise, a Shimano 8170 set costs at least $3000, and it’s around $4000 after tax. I checked the prices on AliExpress, and they have dropped to ￥8000 (which is around C$1500) in China after tax, so I decided to airfreight a groupset from China. I’ll start a post here to document the entire bike setup process.

Disassemble the Bike

While planning to upgrade the components and change the handlebar, I decided to do a major bike maintenance, which took me a very long time:

• First, I didn’t know which bottom bracket tool to use. After searching for a while, I found out my bottom bracket is a threaded type (SM-BBR60 BSA). So, I ordered the tool from Temu and waited for half a month.

• Next, I couldn’t get the bottom bracket off, so I went to The Home Depot to buy a rubber hammer and a wire cutter.

• Then, I struggled with removing the shift cables. After removing the screws from the 7020 hand shifters, I discovered that the cable ends need to align with the holes for the shifters (a tip for those doing it themselves: be brave and disassemble as needed; generally, it won’t be impossible to reassemble, and disassembling will help you understand how it works).

• Then, I couldn’t cut the hydraulic hoses. I watched this video and found out I should use a small knife.

• Then, I found out routing the shift cables internally through the frame is very challenging. However, I soon discovered there are specialized tools for this, so I used the old shift cables as a guide tool (at this point, I hadn’t planned to upgrade the components yet and wanted to keep using the 7020).

• Then, I realized I had cut the front brake hose too short.

• Then, I found out the four cables couldn’t all be routed through the handlebar simultaneously.

• By this point, since my shifter had no oil plug, the brake fluid had splattered all over the new handlebar (this was when I firmly decided to upgrade the components).

• I gave up and listed the 7020 components for sale on Facebook marketplace (It is really nice that I’ve sold all of them for $600).

Component List：

• Frame: Specialized Tarmac SL6 Sport
• Groupset: Shimano Ultegra R8170 Di2
• Front Wheel: Roval Rapide CLII
• Rear Wheel: Roval Rapide CLX
• Handle Bar: Roval Rapide Handlebar 400mm
• Stem: Specialized Future Stem 100mm
• Saddle: Specialized Power Comp
• Seatpost: S-Works Carbon Seatpost
• Padel: Shimano Dura-Ace PD R9100
• Bar Tape: Supacaz Super Sticky Kush
• Tire: Continental GP5000 25c
• Bike Computer: Garmin Edge 530
• Rear Derailleur Hanger: Sigeyi
• Saddle Bag: Silca Mattone Seat Pack
• Bar Tape: Rapha Expore Bar Bag 2.4L

Installing

Rear Brake Caliper

• First, install the rear brake caliper. Remove the fork, then when routing the hydraulic hose, extend it out through the head tube. Next, put on a protective cover to prevent noise, and then route the hose out from the head tube opening.

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• Routing the hydraulic brake hoses inside the bike frame is really difficult, but the guide wire I bought from AliExpress really saved my ass.

• Then use screws to secure the rear caliper, making sure to place the special screws in the rear.

• Don’t forget to install the spacer.

• Finally, install the safety pin.

Front Brake Caliper

• Routing the front fork was so painful; once again, thanks to the guide wire I bought from AliExpress.

Barset

• Attach the shifters to the handlebars, place them on the ground or use a laser tool to adjust for balance.
• Be sure not to forget to tighten the headset expander, and make sure the arrow on the headset expander is aligned with the gap in the stem bolts (some bikes require alignment at the front).
• Adjust the headset spacers.
• Secure the handlebars to the stem.
• Tighten the headset cover.
• Tighten the stem screws.
• Mount the computer mount onto the stem.

Battery

• Secure the battery inside the seat post. A dedicated Di2 battery holder is recommend, but I just used electrical tape to hold it in place.

  

• The three battery wires form an isosceles triangle: the top wire connects to the rear derailleur, the left one to the front derailleur, and the remaining one stays in place. However, don’t remove the protective sleeve.

Rear Derailleur

• I chose Sigeyi direct rear derailleur hanger, (I accidentally bought the green one, but it’s really too ugly), so I needed to remove the original derailleur hanger first. I tried unscrewing it for a long time, but it was too tight so I had no choice but to go to a bike shop for help.

• Use the tool provided by Shimano to connect the wires, linking the rear derailleur to the battery and the front derailleur to the battery.

• Download the E-TUBE app on the phone, press and hold the rear derailleur button for 2 seconds (but not too long) to start pairing. Make sure the rear derailleur has a sufficient charge before proceeding.

• Don’t forget to install the wire plugs.

  

Front Derailleur

• Here, the wire needs to loop around once before entering the frame and finally connecting to the battery inside the seat post.

• Be careful not to forget to install the wire plugs.

• Shimano includes a wire bending accessory for the front derailleur in the kit.

  

Shifters

• Routing hoses

  • First, cut the hose. Align the hydraulic hose with the end of the shifter, make a mark, then make another mark 21mm behind the first one. The second mark is the place that the hose should be cut.

  • Use a dedicated cutting tool to cut the hose.

  • Remove the shifter hose plug screw. Be sure to place a piece of paper underneath to absorb any oil, then take out the olive.

  • Thread the shifter hose plug screw onto the hose first, then insert the olive, and finally use a specialized insertion tool to push the oil pin into the hose (if you insert the pin first, the olive might not fit).

    

  • Tighten the screw with a torque of 8Nm. Make sure to tighten it properly, as a loose screw can cause oil leaks.

• Bleeding the brake

  • First, remove the wheel set, making sure not to let the disc rotor come into contact with oil.
  • Next, remove the brake caliper’s brake pads, ensuring they do not come into contact with oil too. After removing them, use a hex wrench to forcefully push the pistons open as wide as possible. Then, use a specialized tool to hold the pistons in place.
  • Unscrew the hydraulic reservoir screw. The oil filling tool comes with a specific connector; make sure to screw on the connector first before attaching the oil cup (some tools might be integrated without a separate connector, but ensure everything is tightly screwed on, as direct insertion is not sufficient). Otherwise, you may experience oil leakage.
  • Insert the syringe with the attached hose into the caliper, then open the oil filling screw to begin the oil injection. While injecting the oil, you can gently tap the hose to help expel air.
  • Note that when the oil filling screw is not tightened, the brake lever will go all the way to the handlebar. Only when the oil filling screw is tightened will the lever stop before reaching the handlebar.
  • Wipe off any excess oil.

Bottom Bracket

• My bottom bracket specification is SM-BBR60 BSA, a threaded bottom bracket.

Crankset

• Don’t forget the grease.

  

• Tighten the screw with a torque of 13Nm.

Chain

• The side of the chain with the markings should face outward.

• We need to determine the chain length. I used this method:

• Note: When cutting the chain, make sure that both ends of the chain we need are inner plates (the image below is just to illustrate what inner and outer plates are; Shimano chains typically use quick links, and it is rare to use such pins). If one end is an inner plate and the other is an outer plate, the quick link will not fit. Additionally, it is very difficult to cut off just one outer plate using a chain tool.

  

• The method shown in the image can also be used. When I installed the chain, I accidentally cut off an extra link or two, making the chain shorter. As it turns out, removing one or two links doesn’t have a significant impact.

  

• The quick link can be difficult to install for the first time. We need to rotate the quick link to the upper left of the crankset, making sure the crankset is facing forward. At this point, apply force with your foot to press down on the crankarm, and the quick link should snap into place.

Groupset

• First, set the drivetrain to the largest cog, then adjust the tension screw. Use the caliper provided by Shimano to adjust the distance between the rear derailleur and the largest cog.

• Then, in the E-TUBE software, select Maintenance and follow the steps to adjust the front derailleur. Note that the diagram in the software is viewed from above, looking down.

• Then, set the rear derailleur to the fifth largest cog, and use the software to fine-tune it so that the derailleur and cog are aligned on the same horizontal plane.

• Finally, with the derailleur set to the largest cog, adjust the limit screws so that both screws are close to the limit plates but leave a small gap.

Wrapping the Bar Tape

• Lastly, it’s time to wrap the handlebar tape. Although I’ve wrapped it many times, I still struggle with it. It’s best to find two examples, one for the left and one for the right side, otherwise, I’ll get confused. There are probably plenty of tutorials online as well.

• When tightening with electrical tape, wrap the tape around the handlebars a few times to ensure the tape stays in place; otherwise, the handlebar tape may slide down.

• I remember when I first wrapped the handlebar tape, I searched on Bilibili for a long time and only found one GCN tutorial. It’s clear now that road biking has really become popular.

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Some pics about my bike: )

The YouTube videos come from: